I dropped into the opening party for another new business here in Hakuba yesterday. Liberty Skis from Colorado have opened up their Japanese distributorship on the Olympic road.
Liberty was founded in 2003 in Avon, Colorado. Liberty creates unique freeride skis based on rider input and a commitment to functional innovation. Every detail is designed to enhance rider experience from backcountry to the park. All Liberty skis feature our laminated bamboo core as well as custom edges, UHMW and bamboo sidewalls, sintered P-Tex 2000 and 4000 Electra bases, multi-radius sidecuts, cab-forward stance, and many features specific to each model like elongated tips and tails on the powder skis, or fully centered flex on park models. In addition, every Liberty is backed by the industry leading 3 year warranty.
It’s great to see the growth of the sport and to see Hakuba at the forefront of the Japanese ski industry.  Thanks for a great afternoon. Joe and Tomiko will do well, I am sure.

If you are in the market for some ski gear and have a bit of time before you make your way to Hakuba then a trip to JimboCho in Tokyo may be a good idea.
The ski/snowboard(sports store) area is located between Ogawamachi and Jimbocho subway stations in the Kanda district of Tokyo (about 10min walk west of Akihabara), along Yasakuni Dori(Yasakuni Street) and the small streets just off it. There are a few exits at Ogawamachi subway station, but get out at the Yasakuni Dori exit(B5). You can follow the map from Akihabara if you’re game.
You can also get there via JR (Japan Rail, useful if you have a JR Railpass). Get off at Ochanomizu station at the east end of the station(not the Ochanomizu-bashi exit), and head south down Hongo Dori (it runs down the hill away from the river) until it hits Yasakuni Dori just near Ogawamachi subway station.
Cross to the south side of Yasakuni Dori, and then walk west along Yasakuni Dori, and within 50-60m you’ll see some ski/snowboard shops. One of the first ones on the left is the London Sports surplus store, where you can get some amazing bargains. This is absolutely the cheapest store in the whole area. EVERYTHING in the shop is cheap. Skis, snowboards, boots, bindings, clothing including Goretex. ( REAL Goretex jackets start at $90) Skis start at a ridiculous $40.
A few people speak English in the shop, but you need to know your models. If you have a few days in Tokyo, get onto the internet and find the models.
Keep going and there are numerous shops on both sides and in side streets. Make sure you know your prices, because the brand new stuff before the season can be INCREDIBLY expensive. Once you start seeing book shops and music stores, you know you’ve gone too far. Double back on the other side of the street.
There are probably 40-60 shops in all…..
We can also arrange shopping tours for all types of things in Tokyo

I had a guest send an email through today concerned that there is nothing open at the moment.  The 28th of November is very early in the season and as we were out on the snow the last couple of years at this time already, that fact is no surety that it will happen every year.  The one thing for sure about Hakuba is that it will come. Even in bad years Hakuba is better than most other places. A bad year in Hakuba is 8 meters of snow. In 2005, 8 meters fell just in December. Everybody is anxious including all of us here but I know what is coming and I know I will shoveling a lot of snow again this year as I do every year. By the way there is plenty of snow up high right now for the adventurous backcountry skiers.

Karaoke was made famous in Japan and is still a popular past time. There are a number of options here in Hakuba with snack bars, private karaoke boxes, random shop areas where you can BYO and now new to the White Horse Bar in Echoland. There will be an opportunity to belt out a couple of tunes while enjoying a few drinks with friends. I myself have been known to ruin a song or two. Please don’t be bashful and just give it a go. Plan ahead and learn a song or two before you come to Hakuba and really show off in front of your friends.

This seasons staff are starting to make their way into town. We have them all stay at the Arctic accommodation in Echoland to all get to know each other and they are put through an induction to make sure they are up to speed on all the hotel processes and Hakuba details. They go out and eat in all our recommended restaurants so they can help the guests make their choices and  they get out on the mountains as soon as there is enough snow to help guide people to the best spots.  We have Sean and Sarah back from last year and they will be working at Double Black. Ginko our gorgeous Japanese waitress will be serving again at the White Horse restaurant.  Our amazing chef Ben is returning after working the summer in Miyazaki.  The staff all have a great time whiile they are here and I encourage interaction with all our guests which makes for a really comfortable environment.

A pleasant autumn day here in Hakuba today with blue skies and temperatures around 12 degrees. It is difficult to imagine the winter that is about to explode onto us. Everybody is running around doing those final bits and pieces like changing to snow tyres on their cars and putting up snow poles for the road clearers to keep on track. Some years the snow walls rise up to a couple of meters and creates a maze in the area. Footware is important as you may find the roads and paths can be very icy. We warn our guests to the threat of taking a spill and ask them to bring good walking shoes for when they go out at night.  Another option is to buy a cheap pair from the supermarket here. Every year I buy a pair of snow boots that are warm, comfortable,  have good tread. easy to slip on and off without doing up the laces and are cheap. For about 2000 yen you can buy a pair of boots that will certainly fit the bill here in Hakuba. Another tip is to always walk on the crunchy snow on the sides of the road.

Lunch today in Hakuba was at one of the best Ramen shops in the prefecture. Ramen is a type of noodle mixed in a soup broth. The secret to good Raman is the stock. Today I chose tonkotsu from the Kyushu region which is a pork bone stock. Extra chashu (sliced pork) and tamago (egg) for me. I usually head down to this shop once a week so please feel free to join me if you are having a day off the mountain. They also serve up some great homemade gyoza (dumpling). You can find  many ramen shops at the ski resorts also so you can enjoy this tasty Japanese food for lunch which will warm you up on the inside.

902 bar opened last night for the season. Consistently over the years I have been here the 902 Bar has been one of the best places to go for a few drinks after dinner. Yuka and Yoshiko are the beautiful girls who mix up the cocktails and pour the cold beer and ensure everyone is having fun in this small vibrant bar in Echoland. They have many party nights with some well known international DJs. Get there early and Jiro is usually spinning some of the 5000 albums he has stored on the wall. 902 Bar is about a 200 metre stroll from the White Horse Arctic Hotel.

A typical evening for our guests would be to arrive back from the mountain in our personal shuttle. Exhausted bodies trudge into the drying room to inch their boots off and feel that most beautiful moment of our sport when your feet are free, second only to putting your boots on.  Most people opt straight for the onsen bath to relax their well worn bodies in this most magnificent time tested Japanese tradition. Some decide to have a nice icy cold Asahi beer whilst their body soothes in the hot bath. Others may choose to join their partner with a bottle of champagne and a chilled out moment with no cares.

Once the core body temperature is back to normal and the muscles are soothed by the soft Hakuba waters it is time to convene to the bar to debrief with the other guests on the days activities. Good wines, icy cold beers and some well shaken cocktails help everyone along the way to choosing the best place to eat for the evening. For those who are totally relaxed it might be a night in the White Horse for a big juicy steak or others will choose to take a short stroll down to the main Echoland strip to taste some of the local delicacies. There are so many options here and we are here to help you with your selection. After dinner you may be keen on a little karaoke or just to relax at a little bar for a night cap. Others have been known to kick on to one of the nightclubs in the area till the wee hours of the morning.  The more snow that falls is usually a good indication of the time that everyone will be tucked up in bed. Early to bed and early to rise to get the first tracks in the morning. Come and enjoy the best of Hakuba.

What’s the best way to get to Hakuba from Narita? A common question from our guests who haven’t been here before. In my opinion I will always take the Narita Express from the airport to Tokyo which takes approximately 1 hour. Next I will take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Nagano (90 minutes) and then the bus to Hakuba (1 hour). It is the fastest and most comfortable way to get here. The negatives are the transfers in Tokyo and Nagano with your bags. The positives are very comfortable seating, carriage service and getting to ride on the bullet train is an experience in itself. It is also the quickest option. For an easy option there is a bus that leaves Narita at 8pm. It will take longer however it is a good service if you don’t want the adventure late in the evening. Let us know your travel details when you book and we can help you find the best way here. Free Hakuba Station transfers are included for all our hotel guests.

Sometimes days just cruise through here. Our head office is situated in the Arctic Hotel in Echoland and I spend a lot of time on the computer. There is always something to do here to improve the services and amenities at the hotels (almost perfect now ).
Work is currently finishing up at Double Black on improvements to the heating and water services (I like everyone to be nice and toasty when staying with us).  I am working on our banking arrangements to allow our guests to book online. We have Gucci looking after the accounting and Chiharu is always improving our internal processes with her background in working at some of the biggest hotels in Japan.  The days go so quickly and the season is approaching at a frantic pace. What happened to the warmer months. We will be more ready this year than ever before and I’m looking forward to some of the best days of my life on the snow and I am looking forward to sharing those days with my guests.

Happo One has new ticket check stalls this year. I am not sure if the pass has changed however it all looks pretty high tech. For those new to the system, people usually have a pocket in the left arm of their jacket to place the lift pass which is a small electronic chip about 40mm x 40mm. I was able to find some gloves with a little pocket in them to hold the chip which works really well. You can also purchase an armband for about 100 yen to hold the pass. Just wave your arm over the side sensors and the little yellow arm will drop down to let you through. It is a good system and similar to what they had and also to what most of the other resorts in Hakuba have. At the end of the day you should cash your pass in at the refund machine at the bottom of all of the ski areas. I love the idea of being out on the mountain all day and then cash your chip in and they give you 1000 yen. It feels like they are paying you for your great effort on the mountain that day.

Many people are interested to know what sort of food is available at the ski resorts in Japan. Today I was invited to taste some of the new selections at  the Happo One resort for this season. Who said there is no such thing as a free lunch? I had a sample of the burger, japanese curry, thai curry, fried chicken and tandoori chicken which were all very tasty. Happo One has many restaurants on mountain and scattered around the base. You can try sushi, kababs, thai, pizza, ramen, curries, austrian and you probably thought you could escape the golden arches but no, Mcdonalds is right in the middle of the hill at the gondola station. Don’t knock it too much as they actually serve up a good fresh burger better than any other maccas I have had. To add some balance you can go the other way and enjoy some fine dining with some of the best mountain views of any restaurant with the option to download from the lifts if you end up having a few too many wines. As part of my job here at the White Horse I have to try out all of the restaurants and am slowly building up my knowledge bank throughout the valley. It’s a tough job but hey, someone has to do it so our guests get the best advice on where to eat during their days on the mountain. For those that just want to ski in the morning I certainly have some some treats in store for you.  I hope you don’t mind me joining you.

Today I attended an avalanche film and education afternoon in Hakuba with the Evergreen guys. In Hakuba we have an endless supply of backcountry and also what is commonly known as slack country meaning the lift will actually take you to the drop in spots. The afternoon was a reminder to all of us here of the risks involved in heading out into the wilderness.
The motto is be prepared. Beacon, probe and shovel are the minimum requirements along with at least some knowledge of avalanche risk. The film “Fall Line” has some interviews with people who have been victims of avalanches and they tell their storys of their time under the snow. It must be remembered that it is not only the risk of being buried by meters of debris but the broken bones, cuts and bruises that go along with the fall. We advise all our guests to head out with one of the reputable guiding companies here to get an understanding of local conditions and snowpack before they venture out by themselves to what truely is one of the best backcountry zones in the world. I can recommend the movie not only to warn but to inspire you to get out there and experience the joys of backcountry skiing and boarding.

Ski In Ski Out. Probably the number 1 question I get from customers when they first contact me is how close are you to the lifts.  When I first started holidaying here in Hakuba in 2003 I probably asked the same thing. I stayed at a hotel that was about 300 meters to the closest lift and enjoyed the fact that it was a quick stroll in the morning to the popular resort of  Happo One. Coming back here for the next 3 years on holidays, I realised that there was no benefit being close to one lift. Imagine standing in line on a magnificent powder morning in anticipation of skiing 1 meter or fresh snow that fell over night. No exaggeration.

The air is electric in the line while the lift moves a little at a time as the lifties clear each chair. Imagine the feeling when you look up the hill and see skiers and boarders hooting their way down the mountain. Hang on a second, where are these people coming from. Turns out they were able to open the other end of the resort earlier. We were watching them cut out a little high so they could head back to the open lift. I looked around at the others in the line looking for a non existant way to get to that lift. How do I get there? Do I just give away my spot in the lift line and look for a way to get to the other lift. Taxi maybe, if I could find one. There was nothing we could do but wait for what seemed hours but was probably 45 minutes in total  before the lift started running and feel kicked in the stomach each time we saw someone come down and steal our lines.

One of my concepts for accommodation in Hakuba was to drive our guests to all of the resorts in the valley so they can consistently ski the best conditions on offer on any particular day. From Cortina in the North  to Sun Alpina in the south we will ensure our guests have the opportunity to get the first tracks or best corduroy available in Hakuba so you never have to have that feeling I had on my first trip here. Don’t be fooled by the ski in ski out hype. The question should be “how do I get to ALL of the resorts in Hakuba”.

Some of the most random events happen around here. This evening I was invited to Nagano to attend a wrestling match just like the WWF competition only all in Japanese. I was surprisingly impressed by the show and the talent of the wrestlers. They certainly had the crowd entertained. A strange observation was the shoes off policy at the big sports arena. It seemed quite odd in that environment with tile floors and plastic stuck down on top of that.  Undersized slippers come standard in Japan and supplied for everyone. They must have 4000 pairs stored away. We finished up the night at one of my favourite izakayas in central Nagano for a few beers and a good feed. A great night had by all.

The Hakuba Big Day Out is currently being organised to celebrate the opening day of the season. Last year the event was created to bring all the locals together as we know it may be 4-5 months before we have another chance to enjoy each others company.  We have a bet for the first day of the first resort in the valley to open which we all meet up at. Bets are in at the moment ranging from the 19th of November to the 1st of December.


Tetsu, last years winner and 20 year local has chosen the 28th of November. Me – the 26th. The day will start with first lifts, a long lunch, more skiing and boarding, off to an onsen then out for dinner and most likely finishing up with karaoke. We do see each other throughout the season however it is usually in passing and most people tend to escape to the warmth after Golden Week which ends the season in early May.  The event is open for all so please let me know if you want to join in on the celebration.

One of these days I will do a restaurant count in Hakuba but for the moment I would guess there must be about 200 in the Valley.  I have some favourites that I frequent often but I also enjoy trying out new ones to see what is being cooked up in the kitchens of Hakuba. 
I make a point not to list restaurant names other than the White Horse ones on the web as I do not want to lose my seat when I want to go out however I am very happy to divulge my recommendations to our guests. When people ask me about my favourite Japanese restaurant I remind them that there are so many different styles including Sushi, Ramen, Soba, Kaiseki, Udon, Yaki Tori, Yaki Niku,  Tako Yaki and Izakaya’s.
On an international level in Hakuba there are French, Italian, Thai, Indian, Mexican, Chinese, Korean, and Turkish. This  valley truly is a gourmet’s delight with plenty of locally owned and grown produce. Nagano is famous for its shinshu pork. Much of the fish comes directly from the Japan Sea which is only 45 minutes away so if you know the inside word you can get the freshest sushi in town. Many of the restaurants in Hakuba have only Japanese menus so we are happy to give  some advice on what is on offer and translate your selections. 
A great night can be had enjoying the local Japanese restaurants and with a little help we can add to that by assisting you with your meal selection. you should also be a little adventurous and try some things you wouldn’t usually. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

Itadakimasu  (bon appetite)

Hiking is one of the main activities in Hakuba during the warmer months. Most people are surprised to learn that Hakuba is busier in summer than winter. There are more visitor numbers to the Valley during the warmer months as many Japanese escape the heat of the city areas and to take in the natural beauty of the area. One of the most popular hikes is up to the Happo Pond. The journey begins with a ride in the Happo One Gondola, the Alpen Quad chairlift and then onto the Grat Quad lift.
Even a picnic at the top of the lift system will give you some great views of the mountains and Hakuba Valley.
A walk along a track that consists of wooden and stone stairs for about 45 minutes will reward you with a magnificent view of the Happo Pond with 3000 meter snow capped  peaks towering around you at this time of year. A gourmet picnic with a small bottle of champagne and a warm flask of coffee will certainly give you a most memorable experience. 
During the winter there will be a 3 meter base of snow up here with many backcountry skiers and boarders exploring the endless options for pristine powder runs. At this time of year be prepared for sudden changes in temperatures and take plenty of water with you. In winter avalanche awareness is considered compulsory along with the equipment. For all the best advice about Hakuba talk to tony@whitehorse-hakuba.com

Hakuba has a lot of natural beauty however it does not have any Geisha girls living in the village.

Today I took a drive to Togura Kamiyamada Onsen about 80 minutes away via Nagano. I was invited to the Kamesei Ryokan to sample their Kaiseki lunch where they have some local Geisha girls performing  traditional dance, song and play the shamisen.

A great afternoon and definately worth checking out if you have a day off from your busy skiing schedule in Hakuba. 

The area is a traditional onsen town and the Kamesei Ryokan has a beautiful soft water onsen bath to relax in before you sit down to your lunch.

The Hakuba World Series Cricket Competition is played out during the warmer months of the year bringing together many nationalities including English, Australians, New Zealanders, Canadians, Japanese, Scots, and Swiss to name a few. It is a hybrid game of test, limited overs, indoor and backyard cricket with the rules evolving throughout this inaugural season. Next year we are hoping to challenge some other teams from around the globe to compete for the Hakuba WSC Cup.  Today was the final game of the year as we prepare for the snow which will come anytime now. The view from the pitch is a reminder that the snow is on its way. The Cricket is an ICBO sanctioned event. (Icy Cold Beer Only)

Although most people live here for the winter months and the world class skiing and snowboarding there are many options for other activities in the warmer months. Saturday I woke at dawn to a crisp blue sky morning. A good friend of mine picked me up at 6 and we drove to a trusted little fishing spot where the water is so clear you can actually see the fish swimming around. Hakuba has a great selection of fishing choices in lakes, streams and rivers and the Japan sea is just 45 minutes away. After a few bites myself, today turned out to be Ben’s day with this nice little trout which was cooked up with some lemon, cracked pepper and chopped shallots wrapped in foil and cooked over an open fire.  A delicious breakfast along with some freshly cooked bread and an espresso coffee back at the Arctic White Horse Hotel. This is the life.

Sometimes we can all get caught up with work and end up sitting at our desks all day. Another beautiful autumn day here in Hakuba and I was determined to drag myself away from my computer to find time to take a walk by the river.  It is a great lifestyle here. Originally my intention was to just stay in Hakuba during the winter and manage the hotels however I found the living here to be much to my liking for the whole year. There is a number of westerners from around the globe now living in Hakuba who have also found this balance of lifestyle and work. Clean air, big mountains, great snow in the winter and for all you office workers, fibre optic internet.  Come and live the dream.

Another trip into Tokyo – just for the day. This time to source some produce for the White Horse restaurants and bars this coming winter. Tokyo is a gourmets delight and actually has the most restaurants per capita in the world. I love to try new places each time I go and I have been fortunate to have eaten at where I would consider to be the best restaurant going.  (contact me if you want the details however you have to take me with you
The quickest and most comfortable way to get to Hakuba is to take the bullet train from Tokyo to Nagano and then the bus from there. We help organise transfers for those that come in late after the buses finish. When at Tokyo Station make sure you grab a gourmet bento box (Japanese fast food) from the Gransta Food area for the ride to Nagano. You won’t be disappointed. You could even get yourself a bottle of fine wine for the ride. Cheers

The snow has arrived in Hakuba. This is midway up the resort of Happo One which was the resort where the majority of the events were held for the 1998 Winter Olympics